You’ll only ever have one first motorbike, and riding it should be a special experience. Here’s some tips to help ensure it’s a peach, and not a lemon...

What’s the longterm plan?

Before you even consider a model of bike, you need to think about what you plan to do with your bike in the long term. If you are on a restricted A2 licence, are you looking at progressing to a full unrestricted A one? If so, it might be worth buying a bike that can be restricted down to A2-legal (up to 46.6bhp) and then unrestricted once you have gained your full licence, as it will save you having to buy another bike when the time comes.

If you are happy to stick with an A2 licence, it’s often worth buying a dedicated A2-legal bike as they are generally lighter and cheaper than a more powerful bike that has been restricted to meet requirements. There are some cracking 500cc-ish bikes on the market, so don’t feel you need to get something bigger as soon as possible.

Should you be in the lucky position to have a full A licence, consider what you want from your bike. Are you more likely to cover short distances solo? In which case a naked, retro or cruiser is more suiting. Is touring on the cards? If so then maybe a sports tourer to give you the best of both worlds. Don’t just rush out and buy a bike on the spur of the moment, think long and hard about what exactly you want to get out of your new two-wheeler and how you intend to use it.

And if you are planning on going touring, try to buy a bike with panniers already fitted as they are surprisingly expensive to retro fit. And take a pillion with you on a test ride if you plan for some two-up touring – their opinion matters!

What size suits you best?

Bikes come in all shapes and sizes and just because you can ride a range-topping model doesn’t necessarily mean you should buy one. Some tourers are very heavy, which can make them intimidating at slow speed, and the same is true of tall adventure bikes. For many riders, especially if you are relatively new to two wheels, returning after a break or aren’t as strong as you used to be, a lighter middleweight machine is often a better option.

Remember, you will have to manoeuvre this machine through traffic, possibly even with a pillion onboard. And it goes without saying that a 200bhp sportsbike is best left to those with lots of riding experience, so consider one of the new breed of ‘road-targeted’ sportsbikes such as the Yamaha R7 or R9 or the Triumph Daytona 660 instead of a fire-breathing Panigale V4 if you want to go down the sports route! Smaller bikes are becoming increasing popular, for all these reasons.

Buying new

In the current era where many motorcycles are bought on finance, buying a new motorcycle is more accessible than ever. As long as you have a decent credit rating, most dealers will be happy to sign you up to a finance agreement on virtually any new bike. There are both advantages and disadvantages of buying a new bike.

It will depreciate more than a used bike and probably cost more to insure, but it will be covered by a warranty (two years is standard, sometimes up to four years or even five), have new tyres and so on, and so initial running costs will be reduced and it (should...) be more reliable. If you are buying on credit, the choice between HP and PCP finance is trickier.

HP (Hire Purchase) is a traditional loan, so you will pay off the whole value of the bike, but you need to keep up payments. If you are considering this route, check you can definitely afford the repayments and also see what rates banks are offering for the value of the loan, often it can be less (a lower APR) than a dealer will offer. Also, you might be able to haggle a better deal by not being tied to the manufacturer’s finance package.

PCP (Personal Contract Purchase) is different as you effectively pay the interest and depreciation on the vehicle and then either hand it back or pay the outstanding amount when the finance term finishes. A PCP has lower monthly payments than HP and no commitment to buy the vehicle, however you can end up with nothing to show after the finance term finishes, and there are certain restrictions on mileage, servicing and so on that need to be adhered to or you can occur financial penalties.

Always read the small print with any finance.

It is always worth looking out for pre-registered bikes when buying new. These are brand new bikes that have been assigned a registration number and therefore are registered as ‘previously sold’, meaning you’ll be the second keeper on the logbook. Dealers do this either to either hit a sales-targeted bonus from manufacturers, which in turn allows them to offer a price reduction, or as a loop hole to allow them to sell a new vehicle that doesn’t meet the emissions regulations as it is technically now used and sold on as a second hand bike.

Do your research

If you are looking at buying a used bike, do your research. Find out when the model was updated, which generations have the kit or specification you require and also get on forums and ask about common faults. Arm yourself with as much knowledge as possible so you can make an educated decision on the exact model you want and what to be wary of when looking at a used example. Also, check you can get insured on it, what the costs are and if there are stipulations such as it being garaged.

Buying used from a dealer

Buying a used bike can be a minefield but there are ways to ensure you don’t get stung. Obviously the best way to buy is from a dealer as you will have some comeback should the bike develop an issue, but you will pay more for a similar specification and age bike from a dealer than you will a private sale.

Many feel this is a price worth paying for the reassurance of some degree of warranty (which can often be extended). That’s your call. Also, the advantage of buying from a dealer is that you may be able to test ride the bike on their insurance (and possibly even a few other options they have for sale), to help you make up your mind.

You might also be able to haggle in a few extras such as a bit of kit, new tyre or even a service for free. A lot of dealers sell bikes online and then deliver to your door. This makes it very easy to buy a bike but it is always best of possible to see the vehicle in person, just so you can check it is as advertised.

Dealers are usually able to offer finance on second hand bikes, although don’t rule out buying outright if you can – as this will mean you won’t be tied into a long term commitment as you can sell the bike without penalty if you fancy a change.

Buying used from a private seller

Buying in a private sale is very much ‘sold as seen’ and therefore you need to be on your toes. Always, always, take a voice of reason with you when you are looking at a used bike and listen to what they have to say. It is very easy to get all excited and become blind to obvious faults.

An impartial friend can be far more reasoned in their assessment of a bike. Also, never feel pressured into a sale. Just because you travelled 100 miles to look at a bike doesn’t mean you have to buy it! It is better to waste a train fare and leave without a bike than it is to buy a lemon.

Before you even look at a bike, run an HPI check. This costs less than £10 and will highlight any dark secrets such as the fact it has been written-off, stolen, scrapped or has outstanding finance on it. All these are factors will affect its value and could have serious consequences should you buy the bike and discover them at a later date.

And also run an MOT check via the government’s website (you only need the registration number) to see if any issues were highlighted at the last MOT. If there were a few, ensure they have been completed and ask for receipts as proof.

When it comes to viewing the bike, always do it in daylight. There is no way you can have a proper look around a bike in the dark. Check consumable items such as the tyres, chain and sprockets, and also look for any signs of crash damage (or aftermarket fairings), suspension failure, worn bearing etc.

Don’t be afraid to take your time. Inspect its service history and see if any major services are due (that’s where your research counts, you should know the intervals). A valve clearance check on an inline four could set you back about £800, which is a heck of a lot of cash. Look at the log book (V5C) and ensure the frame and engine numbers match and also that the seller’s address is the same as where you are viewing the bike. If not, ask why.

Never buy a bike without a V5C and don’t accept ‘I’ve lost it, I’ll get another one sent to you...’ It is a good idea to check one key fits all the bike’s locks (seat, ignition and fuel tank) and if not, the chances are it has been stolen and the ignition forced, requiring this to be replaced. If all seems well, now is the tricky part.

Private sellers are understandably unlikely to allow you to go on a test ride because they might think you will just clear off with the bike or even crash it, leaving them out of pocket. There is no easy way around this and, obviously, you need to be insured to ride a bike on the road during a demo ride.

Some sellers will take the cash value of the bike off you and allow you to take it for a test ride on the understanding that if all is not well they will hand back the cash (check to see if you are covered Third Party through your existing insurance), others aren’t as willing to go down this route. That’s the issue with buying used. If you can’t take it for a test ride, start the engine, try and run it through its gears and listen out for any nasty sounds. That’s about the best you can do.

Safety check

Once you have bought a used bike, it isn’t a bad idea to get it serviced by your local dealership. Ask them to give it a quick once over as well as a service just so you know that a professional has looked at things like brakes and suspension, and the bike is in a road-worthy condition. It’s better to be safe than sorry and it shouldn’t cost you too much.

And finally…

Before you ride off, make sure your new bike is road legal. Make sure it has an MoT, if it’s over three years old, and you’ll also have to make sure you’ve paid Vehicle Excise Duty (road tax) which can only be done after the bike has been insured and MoTed.